Dogon Country

The Dogon country was one of the remotest places in Mali and had such rich and diversified culture. I felt privileged to be in such a place, I also felt humbled and became aware of the lot of things I have read about this part of Mali.
The place was too rich in culture and tradition, some stuff was familiar and some was not, there was also an element of fear in the midst of all the tranquillity
When the old Mercedes Benz truck pulled up to the top of the mountain at Benjimeato the harsh reality hit home, people have lived here for centuries yet time seem to have stood still, the inhabitants are happy with their basic dwellings and way of life.
We visited the three main villages the catholic, the Muslim and the Animist camps. Very different sometimes scary, our guide did all he could to make us get a lot out of our little time in the Dogon we set off after some rest and headed down the valley to the next village

AT MOPTI

Mopti seem quite busy, it’s got a bay like natural harbour, which makes it quite busy.
We stayed just one night and in the morning went for a walk and then explored the city including a trip to the local market for more supplies for our trip to the Dogon,we got back to our hotel and got our bit and made it to the station.
At the station Paul thinks we’ve been messed about at places so we should not pay our fare till we know when we are leaving so the man at the ticket office is not happy but we have waited an hour so Paul went to look for a taxi to take us ,on his return we got our bags and left but we were followed by one guy from the station who wanted to make an issue about us taking a taxi which was not in the union or whatever we eventually left in this car with lot of wet seats but it worth every bit of it so we go to Bandiagara and checked into a hotel and in the eve decided to cook some food, but the desert sand has got into the stove so it was cooking very slow so I went out and found a family who allowed me to use their kitchen for a bit and I paid them some money for their fire and generosity.
We found some guys to do business with about a guide to the Dogon country and arranged all the bits involved. We were glad we got a good deal and a good guide so we set off to The Dogon the next morning with Samba Timberly

Out of Toumbuctu

Just as it is hard to get to Toumbuctu it is hard to get out of Toumbuctu our journey started about 12 noon to get out to the port for the pinasse or the powered boat we eventually got to the port about 2pm but had to sit there for some time waiting for some more people to turn up eventually we gave an ultimatum to the operator Babylon is his name, instead of him telling us the whole truth he set off but on an incredible slow speed. This was to ensure that other pinase caught up with us to give us more people. Eventually we stopped and camped about 6 30pm.it was a good location but there was no wood to make any fire, we managed to get a bit of wood but the fire died sooner so went to sleep shortly after.
The next morning we were all woken up quite early and our journey started with few more new people, the energy in the boat has changed since because the new arrivals were unhappy about the charge as they seem to have paid more than the rest of us so there was a bit of tension which Paul helped to at least temporary resolve. Eventually the dust settled and we all started to relax a bit on the Niger. Our nest stop was Niafonky the home town of Ali Faka Toure we went to Ali’s hotel for a drink this was after 6pm so when we left. We went just to find a camping site and camped for the night
The next morning we carried on as usual this time the boat has picked up steam but we are not on target as we lost lot of time on the first day.
By now the atmosphere on the boat has changed and people have been getting on and making connections .I have been a bit unwell with cold and am coughing which is making me a bit grumpy but I am staying cheerful on top of everything I have been nervous because I am not a very good swimmer and I get frighten when people walk on the sides the boat shifts deeper on one side
We travelled quite a bit and got to the bit of the Niger where it has claimed quite some land to form one of the biggest lakes in Africa
I was quite nervous at this section, as there was no sight of land and all sort of fears sets in my mind. At this point I snapped few times when I thought people were being irresponsible by unnecessarily walking and moving to just one side of the boat, I also thought our captain wasn’t assertive enough and was too chilled t o entrusted with my life hence have to make my views known by him and every one so I spoke up and made my point, night was falling by the time we cleared the lake so another search for camping site begun, the boat crew found some where but not everyone was happy about this choice so the had to drive on till we all agreed with the choice. By now some of us were a bit fed up as we were supposed to camped two nights and travelled for three days
We got off and put our tents up, then me and Paul made fire and prepared some gravy and boiled some potatoes it was probably the best meal I have had for days we all enjoyed it and the retired to our tents Sheila was a bit concern that we were camping in ants territory so we made sure the fire was burning well when we went to our tents
The morning was mild I got up quite early and did my packing and was ready so was Paul and Sheila we went and woke the guys on the boat, soon we well on the way this bit was quite picturesque we stopped at some villages on the way for some few bits for the board chef and a bit of walking, it was interesting at some of the villages.
Eventually we got to our final destination Mopti, I phoned my contact that Sandy my friend in Bamako had arranged, as it happened he was taking me to the same place as Paul and Sheila had planned to stay, it seems like we are destined to be together so we kept it that way and made our arrangements to Dogon

FROMO TOUMBUCTU TO ESSAKANE

The festival of the desert begun on the 11th Jan 2007,I had made arrangement for transport to the venue in a 4 x 4 truck which departed after about 3 hrs of waiting, we set off on a desert track for about 2hrs eventually we arrived in Essakane after some bumpy desert ride, it’s a journey only for the four by fours
The location was excellent just as I imagined full of sand and dunes. It was time to take it all in after the ride, I found a place to lodge under a big tent where I placed my small tent. I was glad I was sharing a tent space with the two ladies I had shared the ride with. We got on so it was easy in that respect
After a bit of a stroll I found my new friends from Canada Paul and Sheila so we went for a little drink in one of the beer tents which was quite a stone throw from their tent.
About 10 pm we went to check the main stage and the festival was officially opened. Speeches were made, the usual protocols and the festival was on the way with some Toureg traditional bands, it was really good start and I felt good. The only thing, which came in between the enjoyment and me, is the African soldiers who always seem to want to sharpen their batons whenever there is an occasion. This has been the norm in most circumstances in most countries that I have visited.
The setting was very beautiful around the immediate area was some sand dunes where fires were lit in a nice circular lines. The first night was good and the music stopped and carried on right through the nigh
Day two was good in Essakane a lot of activities it feel like a whole village has emerged from traders of little souvenirs to big market stalls selling all sort of things from Mali, there were all sort of people from all corners of the word mixing and having fun as well as sharing sometimes, it was really a good atmosphere. There was virtually no police presence even thou there were some soldiers stationed nearby they kept quite a low profile. I think this also epitomised the quality of the people around. I think we all had one aim. Hence a very nice festival.
There was lot of water considering it was on the desert, the only disappointment was the loos and the wash rooms, but I think it was to be expected as it was being stretched to the limit and there was no cleaners to my knowledge.in.there were some few little bits that wasn’t up to scratch but in all the organisers have done well in putting everything together in such a remote spot. The sound quality was also superb .in all its thumbs up well done to the organisers.

INSIDE TOMBOUCTU MORE PICS

so far my expectations have been just as i immagined i am enjoying the sun and the sand and all the lovely people

THE JOURNEY TO TOMBOUCTU

My journey to Tombouctu begun on the 5th of Jan and it took three days to get there, it was some journey very difficult and very scary sometimes we drove through the Sahara and it has been an experience, I have had an experience that I could never had if I flew here.
I am now here and I am enjoying Tombouctu as a city, it’s a place like nowhere so far I have been to different places that your normal tourists go and also been to visit friends and their families also
There is a lot to say about this place but for now I would let you see some few pictures and write some more latter

From the Gambia to Senegal

My journey begun about 12 midday I was confronted with a lot of harsh realities as soon as I stepped onto the first bush taxi, it took awhile before we got to Banjul station from Brikama, the driver decided to be cheeky to a police man and he decided to keep us waiting, from then we got to Banjul and I was dropped off at some where that was hard to work out my way but fortunately was able to find a taxi to take me to the terminal for the ferry
Now the fun begins
I always thought I was strong but I was put to the test both mentally physically and emotionally and was close to tear because of the in ability for any one to see the sort of suffering that people had to got through
When the taxi dropped me I needed some CFA money so I was looking for somewhere to change money and found someone to change money on the black market, I just could not wait in a long queue with my luggage so I was lucky this man changed some money for me and helped me get a ticket for the ferry, the people around were warning me about where I was putting my wallet even though I thought it was safe at where I put it thank God I listened to them. The guy was able to bribe my through a long queue with his own money, so I appreciated his help and paid back his money. I was finally inside the building so knew I had a passage to take me across
Now the whole thing get rough whilst waiting for the gates to open the gate on the other side opened and people started to rush out and then our gates opened it was really rough I was carrying about 40kilos on my main bag pack 20 kilos in the other bag in my hand 15 kilos in my small rug sack in front of me like a kangaroo and guitar in the other hand.
There was a mini stampede into the terminal but I thought I could cope and went through it ok but we were unable to go onto the ferry so we had to go off the docks and wait this was hard without any luggage let alone what I had, the soldiers started to use force to force people back it was really hard finally made it back and found some piece of precious earth to stand on. Eventually we had some invisible signal that the ferry was coming and people started to rushed again they were kept abay till all the people and the trucks had come off everyone started to rush I was in the thick of it by now I wanted to get out of it but could not get out so I had to face the situation head on this time there was a major stamped sheep and goats had fallen and people were tripping over them and falling on them and still people were still going and falling, I was still in it holding on to everything my guitar was beginning to crush and still I held on to it was making its way in between some woman’s leg and she was shouting I tried to help but it was hard, it was really hard and I asked one guy who had less load to help me and will give him some money I was lucky he knew he had to because I was at a critical point where all the sheep were on the ground and needed one arm to manoeuvre I finally got through, it was like I had come out of hells gate and was in front of havens door’s was on board now and knew why those people were warning me about my wallet and money belt, thank Got I tucked it inside my private area
the ferry took a while but we took off in the end and i breathed a sighof relief and said a little prayer,i got to the borders of Senegal and had to get a ride on a horse cart i was glad it was not a donkey